Kindle Cover {My Audition Craft}

If you've been hanging around, you know that I am currently a contestant in So You Think You're Crafty Season 15.  For my audition project, I entered my kindle cover.

I was so excited when I received a kindle fire for Christmas this past holiday season!  Of course I was excited at all the reading possibilities, but also for the crafting possibilities.  I knew right after I opened the gift, that I would make a kindle cover.  After scouring the racks, I fell in love with this pink/purple swirly fabric, and found this fun green accent for the inside.

I knew I wanted it to have a zippered pocket to keep all my cords, earphones, and library card (did you know that you can check out books from the library for your e-reader?).  I was pleased with the free-motion quilting design, the ease of the velcro closure, and how it fit my kindle like a glove, but it still seemed incomplete...that is until I created the design for the front of the top flap.

After I added the embroidered fabric with my name on top of this great ruffled ribbon, I knew my project was complete!  It is the perfect size and weight for the kindle, and the double layer of quilted fabric is enough to cushion it for those unfortunate falls it sometimes takes.

Come back later this week for the tutorial!

Oh, and while you're busy checking out cool new projects, head over to So You Think You're Crafty and vote for your favorite projects this week!  The theme is "Spring," and there are lots of fun ideas.

The (reversible) School-Time Messenger Bag

Do you remember when I went to Utah in March?  While I was there, I made this cute bag with my cousin Hannah (her friend Tess also made one).  I promised to post a tutorial explaining how to make the bag, but alas, it turns out that I do not take helpful pictures when I am helping two teenagers create something.  I know it has been months, but I finally remade the bag, and have the complete tutorial for you!

Supplies

soft and stable

• Scissors
• Rotary cutter and mat (optional, but so helpful)
• Sewing machine & thread
• Pins
• 1 yard decorator's/indoor canvas (one side)
• 1 yard decorator's/indoor canvas (other side)
• Soft & Stable (for the bag body) - this is optional, but it is a great product.  It is lighter than batting, and more stable.  You could use batting, or if you want a floppier bag, don't line it with anything.
• Iron & ironing board
• Pencil/pen
• CD or DVD
• Ruler or measuring tape

Directions
***unless otherwise stated, the entire pattern uses 1/4 inch seam allowances***
***these directions pertain to directional fabric; if yours does not have a direction, you can ignore directions***

1. Begin by cutting each of your fabrics into the following sizes (the picture is to help people with directional fabric):

1. 13 x 11.5   front (cut 1 soft and stable)
2. 13 x 11.5   back (cut 1 soft and stable)
3. 4.5 x 11.5  sides (2) (cut 2 soft and stable)
4. 13 x 11.5   flap
5. 4.5 x 13     bottom (cut 1 soft and stable)
6. 4.5 x 5.5    side pockets (2)
7. 4.5 x 7       side pocket liners (2)
8. 13 x 7.5     front pocket
9. 13 x 9        front pocket liner
10. 3 x 43       strap
2. Make your strap.  Stack the straps right sides together and sew along both long sides.  Flip right sides out, iron, then sew 1/4 inch from the edge along the long sides again.

3. Make your pockets.

1. Match your side pockets and side pocket liners.  The pocket liners should be 1.5 inches taller than the pockets.
2. Stack and pin your pieces along the shorter side right sides together so that the top of the pocket matches with the bottom of the pocket liner.
3. Sew pocket and liner together.
4. Iron the seam allowances toward the pocket liner.
5. Fold the pocket on top of the liner to match the bottom corners of the liner and the pocket.
6. Iron them flat.
7. Top stitch along the top of the pocket to stabilize.  I stitched two rows of top stitching for decorative effect.
8. Repeat the process with the front pocket sewing along the longer edge this time.

9. When you are finished you will have all of the above pockets.
4. Make your flap.

1. Trace your cd/dvd on the two bottom corners of each of your flap pieces.
2. Cut the corners so they are round.
3. Stack the two flap pieces right sides together.
4. Sew around the sides and bottom edges - leaving the top open.  Clip around the corners.
5. Flip inside out, iron, and sew 1/4 inch from the edge for the three sides you just sewed.
5. Sew together bag body.
1. Stack in the following order: the front piece of soft and stable, the front fabric right side up, the front pocket right side up, the bottom fabric right side down, the bottom soft and stable.  Sew together.

2. Mark down the center of the front pocket, then sew down to create two smaller pockets.

3. Sew bag back onto the bag body by attaching to the bottom.  Stack the bottom (soft and stable with bottom fabric), back fabric, and back soft and stable, then sew.

4. Sew the sides to the front of the bag (remember to include the pockets and the soft and stable). 

5. Sew the sides to the back of the bag.  You will have an opening at the bottom of each side.  Pin sides to bottom, and sew a straight line to close the opening.

6. Repeat entire process for the other bag fabric (minus the soft and stable).  For the sake of this tutorial, we will call this the lining from now on, but understand this is not actually lining since the bag is reversible.  I sewed three lines down the front pocket of this one to create pen/pencil pockets.

6. Sew the flap to the bag body with the soft and stable.  I sew just a little less than 1/4 inch seam allowance to ensure this seam does not show when the two sides are sewn together.

7. Pin the strap into the bag body.  Be sure to not twist the strap when you pin.

8. With the bag right side in, place the lining right side out inside the bag and pin together around the top.  Be sure to catch the straps in the pins and make the pockets line up on the same side.  Sew around the top leaving a gap at the back to turn the back right side out.

9. Turn the bag right side out, then pin around the top. 

10. Sew 1/4 inch around the top to stabilize the bag--be sure to catch the opening and sew it shut when you sew around the top.

Streamer Bow

Well I am back from cheer camp, and we had a great time!  Besides the zebra bows, we wore two different sets of streamer bows.  These are fun, easy, and quick to make.  Consider them the next time you are making bows.

Supplies

• 3 sizes of ribbon (you can use whatever kind and size you want, but I recommend using at least some grosgrain ribbon for body and structure).  For the pink one, I used a 2.5", 7/8" and 3/8" ribbon, and for the camouflage, I used 7/8", 5/8" and 3/8" ribbon.
• Scissors
• Hot glue and gun
• Measuring tape
• Hair tie
• Fray Check

Directions

1. Cut the ribbons down to size.  Cut the largest width ribbon 1/4" longer than the medium width ribbon, and the medium width ribbon 1/4 " longer than the thinnest ribbon.  I cut the pink bow ribbons 13", 12.75" and 12.5", but the camouflage I cut 14", 13.75", and 13".

2. Trim the ends so that they have the double point.  Fold the ribbon in half length-wise, then clip at an angle.  Dab Fray Check on the end of each ribbon to prevent fraying.

3. Cut about 4-5" of the medium and small ribbons to create your center knot.  Stack one on top of the other, and tie in a knot.  Fray check the ends.  (If you are making multiple bows, cut a longer length of ribbon and tie all the knots at once--it is easier)

4. Place a dot of glue on the center of the widest ribbon, then stack the medium ribbon on top of it.  Repeat with the smallest ribbon.  Glue the center of the knot to the center of your stacked ribbons.

5. Place a dot of glue on the back of your ribbons in the center.  Stick the hair tie in the glue dot.  Glue and fold the sides of the ribbon so that both ends of the ribbon knot meet.

Wired-Edge Ribbon Rose - Super Easy!



Sorry for the blurry picture...it's a little difficult to take a steady picture of the top of my own head.

This will take all of a couple minutes to make, and is so easy, it makes a great kid project to adorn hair, clothes, or accessories.

Supplies

• Wire-edge ribbon (I used 2.25 inch wide ribbon and about 30")
• Scissors
• Hot glue gun
• Fabric, cardboard, or paper to glue flower down on

Directions

1. Begin by cutting ribbon to length, then poke wire out of the edge.  Pull one side of the wire completely free from the ribbon.  Poke the other side out and begin pulling.

2. Fold one edge under, pinch in your fingers and glue down.  This creates the center of your rose.

3. Scootch the ribbon along the wire until it is completely gathered.  It will naturally spiral around the center.

4. Glue down on scrap of fabric, cardboard, or paper.  Be sure to glue down each layer of the ribbon to ensure rose doesn't bobble.

Simple Hair Bow

Cheer camp is next week, so we are gearing up for what's to come.  This week, I am making bows; this zebra bow is a simple bow and takes only minutes to make.

Supplies

• Ribbon - I used 1.5 inch wide satin zebra print, and 7/8 inch wide black satin.
• Glue gun
• Scissors
• Hair elastic
• Fray Check

Directions

1. Cut a 3 inch length of the black ribbon and tie into a knot.

2. Cut a 21 inch length of the zebra ribbon and fold like pictured.

3. Pinch center of the bow and glue the black ribbon to the front.
4. Place the elastic against the back of the bow and glue the black ribbon ends around the elastic.

5. Dab fray check in a line along the cut ends of the bow to keep from fraying.

Baby Pixie Hat

Do any of you watch glee?  Not too long ago, Quinn wore a pixie hat that went viral.  I saw this cute hat here, and I thought it would make a great baby hat and gift.  Knitted hats for baby are one of my favorite gifts because they are soft, comfy, cute, and quick.  I made this one to donate to Warm Hearts Warm Babies, so it is fit for a premie, but the pattern should fit most newborn heads.

Supplies

• One skein Baby's First Lion Brand yarn (you can make several hats out of one skein).  This is a bulky weight yarn, which knits up more quickly than a sport or worsted weight.
• 12 inch size 6 circular needle (this is my favorite needle for knitting baby hats).
• Size 6 double-pointed needles
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry/yarn needle
• Button or other embellishment
• Scissors

To work the rib in this pattern, knit into the back of one stitch, then purl one stitch, repeat.  Remember to move your working yarn to the back when knitting, and the front when purling.

To work the decrease, you will knit two together by knitting in the back of both stitches.

Directions (after step 3, every time the pattern instructs you to knit, knit into the back of the stitch)

1. With circular needles, cast on 76 stitches.
2. Knit rows 1-6 (do not join).  This will create a garter stitch and the base of the hat.
3. Row 7: k2, bind off first stitch, k1, bind off second stitch, k1, bind off third stitch, k1, bind off fourth stitch, k1, bind off fifth stitch, k1, bind off sixth stitch, work rib pattern to end of row. (70 stitches left on needle)
4. Row 8: place stitch marker and join both sides to create a loop so you are knitting in a circle.  You will have the six-stitch flap hanging down.  Begin with the knit stitch and work in rib around.
5. Continue working in rib stitch until your hat measures about 5 inches tall.
6. Begin decrease rows:
1. Decrease row 1: k2tog, work rib for 12 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (65 stitches)
2. Decrease row 2: k1, work rib for 12 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (65 stitches)
3. Decrease row 3: k2tog, begin with a purl stitch to work rib for 11 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (60 stitches)
4. Decrease row 4: k1, begin with a purl stitch to work rib for 11 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (60 stitches)
5. Decrease row 5: k2tog, work rib for 10 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (55 stitches)
6. Decrease row 6: k2tog, begin with a purl stitch to work rib for 9 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (50 stitches)
7. Decrease row 7: k2tog, work rib for 8 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (45 stitches)
8. Decrease row 8: k2tog, begin with a purl stitch to work rib for 7 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (40 stitches)
9. Decrease row 9: k2tog, work rib for 6 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (35 stitches)
10. Decrease row 10: k2tog, begin with a purl stitch to work rib for 5 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (30 stitches)
11. Decrease row 11: k2tog, work rib for 4 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (25 stitches)
12. Decrease row 12: k2tog, begin with a purl stitch to work rib for 3 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (20 stitches)
13. Decrease row 13: k2tog, work rib for 2 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. (15 stitches)
14. Decrease row 14: k2tog, p1, repeat to the end of the row. (10 stitches)
15. Decrease row 15: k2tog, repeat to the end of the row. (5 stitches)
7. Last 2 rows: k5. (5 stitches)
8. Cut yarn ends, and pull tail through stitches.  Weave tail into top of hat.
9. Weave in the tail at the base of the hat, and stitch flap to base.
10. Add embellisment over flap.

If you don't already know how to knit, I have knitting tutorials with pictures and video:

• Knitting 101: Lesson One {The Slipknot}
• Knitting 101: Lesson Two {Casting On}
• Knitting 101: Lesson Three {The Knit Stitch}
• Knitting 101: Lesson Four {The Purl Stitch}
• Knitting 101: Lesson Five {Casting/Binding Off}
• Knitting 101: Lesson Six {Patterns}
• Knitting 201: {Circular Needles}
• Knitting 201: {Double-Pointed Needles}

Knitted Berry Hats

This is an easy pattern to knit for a premature baby, or a full-term baby.  I use bulky weight yarn for the full-term baby hats, and sport weight yarn for the premature baby hats.  You could also increase or decrease the number of stitches in multiples of six.

Supplies

• One skein green yarn
• One skein berry color yarn
• Scissors
• Yarn needle
• Row marker
• Size 6, 12" circular knitting needle
• Size 6 double pointed needles

Hat Pattern:

1. Cast on 54 stitches.
2. Add row marker, and knit in the round until your project measures 6 inches tall.
3. Decrease (change to double-pointed knitting needles when you feel the need to switch)

1. Knit 7, knit two together, repeat all the way around (48 stitches remain)
2. Knit 6, knit two together, repeat all the way around (42 stitches remain)
3. Knit 5, knit two together, repeat all the way around (36 stitches remain)
4. Knit 4, knit two together, repeat all the way around (30 stitches remain)
5. Knit 3, knit two together, repeat all the way around (24 stitches remain)
6. Knit 2, knit two together, repeat all the way around (18 stitches remain)
7. Knit 1, knit two together, repeat all the way around ( 12 stitches remain)
8. Knit two together, repeat all the way around, (6 stitches remain)

4. Snip the thread several inches long, then pull through all six stitches.

At this point, you could simply weave in the ends and finish the hat, or add a poof ball.  If you want to make a berry hat, continue with the greenery pattern below.  I found this star pattern here, and thought I could adjust it to fit my needs.  Her original pattern was a bit small, so I added an extra row.  I also added a braid in a loop at the middle for the stem.

Before you are completely confused, here is what I mean when I write (rsd):

And what I mean when I write (wsd):

Berry Greenery

1. Cast on 65 stitches.
2. Row 1:  knit 5, *rsd, knit 10, repeat from * 4 times, rsd, knit 5 (55 stitches remain)
3. Row 2:  purl 4, *wsd, purl 8, repeat from * 4 times, wsd, purl 4 (45 stitches remain)
4. Row 3:  knit 3, *rsd, knit 6, repeat from * 4 times, rsd, knit 3 (35 stitches remain)
5. Row 4:  purl 2, *wsd, purl 4, repeat from * 4 times, wsd, purl 2 (25 stitches remain)
6. Row 5:  knit 1, *rsd, knit 2, repeat from * 4 times, rsd, knit 1 (15 stitches remain)
7. Row 6:  wsd, repeat across entire row (5 stitches remain)
8. Sew the one side shut, and add a braid for a stem.

When you are finished, use the ends to attach the greenery to the hat.

Felt Pinwheels

I thought these felt pinwheels were the perfect accessory to accompany the handkerchief skirt.  The dual colors and the rotating points echoe the colors and lines of the skirt completely.  These would be cute as a hairbow, pinned on a shirt, or worn on a bracelet.

Materials/Supplies

• Scissors
• Pinking shears
• Two colors of felt
• Low-melt hot glue gun
• Button or other embellishement for center

Directions

1. Begin heating glue gun.
2. Cut a 4" square out of each color of felt. (you can adjust sizes if you want)

3. Use the pinking shears around the edge of the inside color of felt, to create the zig-zag edge and make the inside felt smaller than the outside felt.

4. Mark the center of the inside square, and glue the inside to the outside.  My mark is really light, so you can't really see it in the picture.

5. Cut from each corner in to the center.  Be sure to leave a small amount of felt between each cut so the pinwheel doesn't fall apart.

6. Place a small dot of glue near the center of the pinwheel.

7. Fold in the closest corner and hold in place until the glue cools.

8. Repeat with all corners.

9. Glue your button (or other embellishment) to the center covering the points you just glued down.  I used one side of a rivet.  I made a ball of glue in the center, then pressed the rivet down on top.  This created a glass-like look to the center.

I will be linking this project up to these link parties.